So Many Goodbyes

Well, I figured I can make one last post before I head back to the States for my 3 week holidays. life here has been pretty good in general. Work has been extremely busy and our Country Representative (my boss) has left the country for his holidays. That of course means that I am now responsible to make sure everything is moving forward. This makes busy even busier! Ugh! But, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. On sunday I start making my way down to Colombo and will spend xmas with some friends at a swanky resort. Then Tuesday I travel to Colombo where I will frantically try to finish my work AND do some xmas shopping. Finally, my flight leaves for SF on Wednesday night. Phew! I can't wait. I am really looking forward to seeing my friends in SF and visiting my family in Wisconsin. My Dad sounds like he is doing great and recovering well from his surgery this fall, and my mom is retiring on January 2nd! Wow, what a milestone. I am so proud and happy for her. Congratulations Mom!

I apologize, but I have no photos to share with some holiday sentiment. There doesnt seem to be too much holiday spirit here in Trinco. You can hear the occasional xmas song being played at the two hotels here (interesting note: for some reason, ABBA qualifies as christmas music here. hmmm, figure that one out). In colombo, there are xmas lights everywhere and people are shopping like mad. Seems they have embraced the commercial aspect of xmas as much as anywhere. Anyway, back to the photos. People have been leaving Trinco by the dozens for some time now and it is really pronounced these days because many peoples missions are finishing up. It will be 2 years this 26th that the Tsunami hit the shores of Sri Lanka so many organizations are wrapping up their projects and sending the staff home. This is making Trinco a much lonelier and quiet place. Just the other day, our good friend Florian left for Germany after nearly 2 years here. He was one of the first people I met in Trinco and he kind of took me under his wing during my first few months here, introducing me to everyone, telling me how the projects worked, and making sure I knew where the next party was! So on Tuesday, we invited Florian over for a last Italian coffee at our office. :( Good Luck Florian! We miss you already!
"The last coffee" Same like the last supper, but different.

Me, Florian, and Pietro. Some of the last original Trinco Gang.

A blast from the past. Me, Shophie, and Florian at last year's holiday party. -looking pretty fresh considering the photo was taken at 5:36 AM.

Thanksgiving in Sri Lanka

So this is my second Thanksgiving in Sri Lanka and I decided that I would host a nice dinner for my good friends here. Many of you know that Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday (next to Halloween of course, but that is a different matter), and you know how I like to make a big dinner for my family or friends. We had a great evening with good food, considering what I had to work with, and fun conversation. So I though I would share some of my evening with you here since I wasn’t able to be there with you all.

The Menu:
Appetizer
Roasted Garlic Heads
Cashew Nuts

Main Course
Citrus Roasted Goose with Cranberry Sauce
Bread Stuffing with New Zealand Apple
Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes
Steamed Green Beans tossed with Garlic and Roasted Cashews
Sweet Pumpkin Squash Curry
Slivered Carrots in Butter Sauce

Dessert
Chocolate Ripple Ice Cream
Italian Coffee

This is Gary the Goose. I found him at one of the small seaside beach resorts that we often visit. I could not find a turkey for the life of me and was pretty disappointed. But it turns out that Gary was pretty tasty! My friend Petr pointed out that this was like a real Thanksgiving, as we received our bounty from the natives and not the grocery store.

We forgot to say grace but I did get to share a little bit of the Thanksgiving traditions with my non-American friends. For most of them, this was there first American Thanksgiving. Clockwise from left: Marco and Nicola (Italy), Florian (Germany), and Petr and Jana (Czech Rep.). We were later joined by Petra and Ivo, two more of my Czech friends.

Jana had the nicest looking plate. I think we were laughing about Gary Goose…

In the end, everyone really enjoyed the food, which was a big relief. I was afraid that everything was going to turn out strange.

I hope you all had a wonderful Thanksgiving and I look forward to seeing you all soon!

Happy Thanksgiving!

New Digs

Hey y'all,
I thought I would post a couple of pics from my new house located in Orr's Hill, Trincomalee. we have a nice view of Trinco Harbor and Trinco town from our 2nd Story balcony, where we spend most of our time when at home. I have two Italian roommates, Pietro and Marco, both are great guys and we get along well. Pietro is taller then me and used to play professional basketball in Italy. And Marco is a fantastic cook, something that we take much advantage of (thanks Marco!)

I will try to post a few more pics from the house later this week.

Our balcony faces east and it is great to sit out here enjoying my morning coffee. My bedroom has the same view and I get the first morning light shining on my bed, pouring in my windows each morning. Its a great way to wake up, along with the sounds of dogs, raking of the garden, and all the noises that are Sri Lanka.

Our landlord lives next door and was harvesting the king coconuts from the palms in our front yard. This morning he rang our bell at 7am (this being mid-morning as everyone here gets up around 430 or 5 AM) to give us a couple of them. They are great if you but them in the freezer for a bit to chill the sweet juice inside. Most people love them here and they are quite refreshing, but I'm not really a huge fan. Marco and Pietro will enjoy for sure.

This pic is from our balcony, before it was ours. Our czech friends had us over for dinner one night. From left to right: Priya (CARE International); Marco (CESVI and current roommate); Veronica andPetr( People in Need- Czech Republic); Pietro (CESVI and current roommate); and Petra, Matej, and Ivo (People in Need- Czech Republic).

The Hardest Thing...

The hardest things about being away from home is not being able to be there for your family and friends when they need you. In so far as this point, this week has been a tough one. Last Thursday my friend Hetal in SF had kidney transplant surgery and received a healthy kidney from our friend Doug Held. And now, as I type this entry, my father is having surgery to install a bypass tube from an artery in his chest to his legs to supply blood as the main vessels are 100% blocked to his legs.

The good news is that both Hetal and Doug’s procedure went smoothly and they are making surprisingly seedy recovery. It’s truly amazing what medicine is capable of these days.

I’m hoping that my father’s procedure goes as smoothly. My sister and her beautiful girls are there in Milwaukee with his wife Polly. I’m stuck in Trinco in this pond called Sri Lanka and was unable to come there to be with my Dad. Even calling is not easy due to the 11 ½ hour time difference and the piss-poor reception I have at my house.

I know my father was not looking forward to this procedure, considering that 9 months ago he underwent open-heart surgery. But he was strong and made the decision to go ahead with the procedure so that he would be able to enjoy all the things he loves like working outdoors at ‘Hawk Ridge’, snowmobiling, and being able to stroll through the beautiful woods of northern Wisconsin in which he makes his home.

So, all I can say or do is say ‘hang in there guys’! You are all in my thoughts and I really wish I could be there to give you my love and support. And thanks to my sister Michelle for picking up the slack for her baby brother while I am on the other side of the world trying to work this adventure out of my system.

I wish a speedy recovery to you all and am so sorry I can’t be there with you. I can’t wait to see you in December/January.

Much peace and love.

One Year Later

I have been here for just a few days more than one year now. This has really been one heck of an experience, and one that I will never forget! So, its time to give a long over due update on my situation here in Sri Lanka… Like I said in an earlier post below, I made it back from Bali well rested, refreshed, and recharged. Man it was so good to relax and be in a different environment all together. Sri Lanka is a beautiful place but it can really wear on you. Anyway, the trip was great and I hope you enjoyed some of the pics I posted below.

I am now back in Sri Lanka and many things have changed, most of them for the better. First of all, I have recently signed on with an Italian NGO called CESVI. They are the main donor and partner organization for Sewa Lanka and my housing project. So this means a couple things: I am still working on the same project and have similar responsibilities and work with the same people; I now my peers and superiors are expats, and Im getting paid! Yep, insurance and everything! I am really good friends with all my coworkers and we have a lot of fun working (and playing) together. This is really a great opportunity because it gives me a chance to stick it out and see this project through to completion. I think you can understand that it would be much more gratifying to see these houses build and the people move in rather than just saying “ok, my 1 year is up, good luck to you all!”. Truth is, the project would be in dire straights if I left right now. So I think this solution works well for every one. I am sad to leave Sewa Lanka but am looking forward to my new opportunity.

This enthusiasm for my new working situation should not be confused with my excitement for returning home. I miss all my family and friend soooo much. I miss San Francisco so much. I miss climbing and snowboarding every other weekend, and road trips on smooth roads. I miss good food on every corner. I miss high-speed internet connections, wifi cafes, and good coffee. My plan is to come back to San Francisco for New years for a week or two, then off to the Midwest to see the family and more friends. I will come back to Sri Lanka for a few months to close the project and leave at the end of March 2007.

I should also let you know that the security situation here has gotten better, at least in Trinco. The gov and the LTTE are still battling it out in various places in the North and east but Trinco has been really calm and quiet. Now that I am working for an international organization, the security protocol will be more strict than with the local org. I was well cared for with Sewa Lanka but CESVI will be even more conservative. So I am in good hands. :)

So, thank you again for all your support. I really appreciate all of you that have been staying in touch and especially all the nice care packages, even if they take 4 months to arrive sometimes! I miss you all. Stay in touch and I look forward to seeing you all at the end of the year! Ciao!

This is a pic of me with many of the Sewa Lanka-Trinco crew at the beach for the commemoration of the killing of 17 local humanitarian aid workers in August. Still suffering from Sri Lankan haircuts... 

Its not Lebanon but….

It certainly has not been so good here lately. It seems that the powers that be are hell-bent on tearing this country apart. I am doing fine and have been keeping safe. I have just come down to Colombo and am taking a long overdue, and long planned leave starting tomorrow. I will travel to beautiful Bali for two weeks of R&R. Yippie!

In the last few weeks Sri Lanka, and specifically Trinco (district), has seen some pretty heavy fighting. Those of you who have been following this mess at all know that the recent flare up has been the result of a water dispute in the southern part of Trinco district, about 40 miles south of Trinco town. The Sri Lankan Armed Forces (SLAF) have been bombing, shelling, and attempting to advance ground troops in this area for weeks. In addition to this, the LTTE launched an attack on the town of Mutur, just on the other side of the harbor. 100’s of civilians, SLAF, and LTTE cadres have been killed in the recent fighting, including 17 local staff (Sri Lankan nationals) of another NGO working in Trinco. The later being a tragedy that I cannot even begin to process.

Following the attack on Mutur, nearly 70,000 people have fled the area and are now living in several makeshift camps located a about 20 miles away. Most of them walking the distance with out water and at great risk of being caught in the crossfire. Both arties agreed to a brief ceasefire to allow the civilians to leave but I can assure you this, the ceasefire was not well observed.

What this has meant for life in Trinco is that there has been daily (and seemingly endless) shelling and bombing of the LTTE controlled area on the other side of the water. Trinco has not been spared from retaliation though and received incoming artillery fire directed mainly at the several SLAF bases in and around town.

I have been working almost non-stop through this period both trying to assist with the ongoing relief efforts for the tens of thousands of displaced people, and trying to complete some time sensitive project work for our housing project. Of course we are making an evaluation of what work we can continue in this environment.

There are so many things that I could write about regarding things that have happened: things that I’ve experienced (both good and bad), and things that are not appropriate to discuss in this venue. I can say that I am feeling significant guilt about leaving right now when so many people are suffering and while many of my coworkers and colleagues are up in Trinco. But, I would be lying if I said that I am not relieved that I am taking this break. Like I said, I am doing fine but certainly am a little burned out.

So, Bali here I come!
I’ll be back in Colombo in September. Ciao!

Just checking in....

Hi everyone, just a quick note to say hello. I have not had much time to add to the blog lately, which is a good sign I guess. Things here have been OK in that we have been able to work and to get to the sites. We are building foundations for our 100 homes and making slow, but steady progress. I will try to post some construction pics later this weekend.

I’ve been here for 10 months now and the one-year mark feels like it will be here before I can blink. Many people have come and gone from Trinco since I arrived in Oct last year. I’m starting to feel like a bit of an old hand here. I have met many great people so far and am sure that I will continue to meet more as time goes on.

So whats new? Not too much I guess. Its still hot here and the rainy season is coming in a few months. Im worried that it will start early and put the kibosh on my housing project! This week I went to the south of the Island for a Buddhist and Hindu festival called the Pera Harah (blog entry coming soon), which was a 3-day trip (17 hours of which were in the car…).

The-coolest-news-ever is that my friend Doug (crazy-doug) decided to fly back from London to San Francisco to donate a kidney to our friend Hetal!!!!!!!!! WOW. Im so happy for them and really wish I could be there to support them! Many cheers to Doug for this courageous and selfless act! You are an inspiration to us all! And congratulations to you Hetal! Speedy recovery to you both! I will be pulling for you. { UPDATE: Unfortunately, Hetal and Doug were notified that the surgury has to be put off for a few months due to some test results. Hopefully everything will work itself out and we will celebrate in a few months. Hang in there guys! }

Also, wanted to send my congratulations to Craig and Jessica who got married last weekend! Man, Im really missing out. ;)

Ok, I have to get back to work but wanted to get out a quick post to let you know Im ok. Hope you all are well and thanks for the emails and calls. I haven’t forgotten about you and it is really nice to be remembered occasionally. :)
~Peace

Rest and Recuperation

I can honestly say that this work here in Trinco can be quite stressful and you can feel it building up at times. In fact many organizations including the UN (and the dozens of branches they have spawned e.g. UNICEF) all receive "Hazard" or "Hardship" compensation. This means that they get something like an extra week's vacation every few months and a flight to leave the country. They also receive additional pay for enduring their hardships... Hmmm... sounds pretty nice and yes, I am jealous but not resentful...ok, maybe a little. Anyway, my point is we all make a point to try to relax and have some fun and get your mind off the situation and the work from time to time. For example, last week when my friend Tom was visiting from Colombo, we decided to take a friday afternoon off and hit the beach. Its really amazing to be the only ones on the beach, save a few fisherman!
Kickin it in the pool, enjoying a sundowner on our makeshift beer caddy cum pool bar. We are literally the only ones at this hotel other than the Sri Lankan Monitoring Mission (SLMM) folks that have been living here for a couple of years now. This place used to be busier with expats but many have left and most of the others (me included) have stopped coming here so often due to the horrendous service. I sure miss the pool though...

One of the ubiquitous beach dogs spaced evenly down the beach. I want to come back as a beach dog... This has to be one of the greatest existences. Your only responsibility is to chase away the beach cows that threaten your turf (the second best existence?)!

My First Visitor

After being in Trinco for 9 months now, I finally received my first visitor. My friend Tom (another Sewa Lanka volunteer) came up from Colombo for a few days to visit and check out Trinco for the first time. It was fun to have a visitor, because it makes you see your surroundings through fresh eyes. We visited a few places that I have not seen since my first days in Trinco. I forget what a beautiful place this really can be!

Tom standing near a prayer tree at Swami Rock. Not exactly sure what the wooden boxes hanging from the trees are. Steep granite cliffs right on the edge of the Indian Ocean. Their is a nice hindu temple up here that is quite famous but no one visits it. Perhaps it is because you have to travel through a large army camp that is located immediately at its base.

Temple monkeys chillin on the rocks. I have to say these are some of the calmest monkeys I have seen in Sri Lanka. Unlike the ones that stole my cell phone, disconnect my power lines, and wake me up at 530am by playing on my tile roof.

Tom making friends with a Temple cow. Yes, this little heffer is actually in the temple.

Before the BOSS 808 (hell, before the 303!) there were drum machines. Now I have a better idea how these temples can make so much noise! 

Speaking of Sri Lanka and Journalism....

Ironically, as I was uploading the previous post, news of the bus attack in Anuradhapura this morning was just making its way around here. And, of course the government responed by shelling the ltte controlled area outside of Trinco again today. So this is just a quick update to let everyone know I am fine and safe. It is not clear who was responsible for this horrible attack on the civilian population, but surely it is not going to help the peace process.

You can read about the incident here. And there is a decent analysis of the "not war, not peace" situation here if you are interested.

Peace!

Trouble in Paradise - April 2006

Ok, so some of you may have heard about the recent troubles that have been brewing in Sri Lanka over the past few months. I thought I would share some stories from the events of April 2006 in Trincomalee before they are potentially eclipsed by future events. Things have been heating up in Sri Lanka and Trinco for months now but things in April really exploded. For example, on April 12th, a bomb was detonated within the main vegetable market in the center of Trinco town. Civilian riots ensued and over 20 shops and several vehicles were burned. There were reports of looting of shops and rape of civilians during these riots and approximately 20 persons were killed. Several days of civil unrest followed the 12th April bomb attack including neighborhood mobs attacking and setting fire to houses in the areas surrounding Trinco town and there were several grenade and claymore mine attacks. I decided to leave Trinco for a few days to let the situation calm down and went to Colombo.


A vehicle and shop that had been burned out during the riots that followed the market blast.

Ouch.... A hand full of vehicles and ~ 20 shops received this fate.

This is a shot taken looking up Central Rd five days after the blast and riots. It was strange to see the bustling center of town to be so deserted.

The day I returned to Trinco, the LTTE bombed army HQ in Colombo and then the army started aerial bombing and shelling the LTTE controlled area next to Trinco. Yes, it was an experience; sitting on my veranda watching rockets fire over the harbor and listing to 135mm artillery guns fire every few mins. Jets were even turning over my house (not bombing here) to return to their targets 10 miles south. After a night an exciting night of shelling, I decided to move into a hotel in town next to my boss’s because he figures it is safer for me there. The cool thing is that I keep meeting these journalists there that are finally coming to cover the things happening in Trinco. The reporting has been pretty bad in terms of being balanced and fair. Most of the information coming from the international news agencies seems to be reported from the gov. Until recently there have been very few reporters coming to the district. Most of the reporters are from Colombo. Anyway, this guy was staying at my hotel and I ask him if he is covering blast at the market (two weeks before this now). He said yeah. So I asked if he new about all these nasty things that happened (that everyone in Trinco knows about) but aren’t getting reported? he said “uh, no... but we cant just print rumors because people say it”. At this point I want to throttle his neck. I mean, isn’t this the job of reporters: to go and in-vest-i-gate potential reports of wrong doings; talk to the people etc? So, I told him that these are not rumors, these people exist, you just need to go talk to them. I hooked him up this a man that had a "real story", and it made it to press the next day (London Guardian)! JUSTICE. The first 5 paragraphs pertain to the atrocities that were not being reported previously.

This is the view from the hotel that I stayed in for a week following the aerial attacks. It actually was a nice place to be. I could watch the boys play cricket in hte afternoon before the curfew was enforced. Also watched (painfully) as the army harrassed and beat some civilians traveling down the road...ugh. 

Tamil Wedding

In late March, Florian and I were invited to a Tamil Wedding ceremony for the brother of Shanti, one of the administrators at Sewa Lanka. It is a really intricate affair and is very colorful as you can see by the pics. There is not to much action though. The ceremony mainly consists of the Hindu priest performing a ritual blessing that requires little or no participation from others. It is very important that the couple is wed during an auspicious time. For example, this wedding was scheduled between 10:36 AM and 11:52. The times are dictated by ancient charts I suppose. After the wedding there is a reception that consist of a luncheon at a wedding hall. It was really nice to see everyone dressed so nice and so elaborately. And for me it was a rare opportunity to wear Armani pants with flip-flops (thanks again bryan!).

During the ceremony….
During the photo shoot, Florian and I were asked to join in the photo. It is strange to be a little bit of a celebrity at these functions.

This is as good as rice and curry gets! The green pea and prawn dish was my favorite but unfortunately this was the first and last time I have seen it available. Also on this plate is chicken deviled, fish ball, and dal. They wrap the plate in plastic to ensure that it is clean...a nice touch.

And this is Shanti, one of our more enthusiast administrators. She is a little more sassy and out spoken than most of her female colleagues.